Thursday, 1 March 2012

Day 12: Thursday Throwdown - Taramosalata

Each Thursday during the 2012 Great Lent, we we are going to have a comparison within a product category of  two or more different recipes or two or more different brands; we plan to even compare two or more variations of well-known recipes.  So, let's begin our first "Thursday Throwdown."

Today we are starting with tarama and taramosalata. First of all, let's clarify what tarama is; according to Wikipedia, it is "...the salted and cured roe of the cod or the carp...".  Taramosalata is a meze dip which is usually made by mixing tarama with a starchy base such as bread or potato, olive oil and an acid such as vinegar or lemon juice.  It is common in recent years for companies to make the tarama look reddish or pink by also adding food colouring.  Sometimes the colouring agent is so intense that it is almost distracting to the eye.  Also, in our experience, some brands of highly coloured tarama have a strong, chemical flavour.

Here are two popular brands of tarama, Krinos and Niki (product of Greece). Krinos lists carp roe, salt, 100% canola oil and color as its ingredients, whereas Niki's listed ingredients are carp roe and salt. Given the bright red colour of the latter, perhaps there are other non-listed ingredients in this product?

Niki brand taramas

Krinos brand taramas

Then, we will follow the recipes of different authors and compare the final product.  We will show you what the results look like and provide you our personal opinions about our likes and dislikes.

Please note that we had a difficult time choosing a taramosalata recipe.  Many of them contain too many ingredients and quite a few of the dozen recipes we examined used potatoes and bread together.  For simplicity's sake, we used a recipe which allows for the tarama to stand on its own. 






















Ingredients shown: olive oil, jar of tarama, small onion, Meyer lemon, sliced white bread

Taramosalata with Bread (source of recipe: The Lenten Collection, page 6, a Cookbook, 1996, Morris Press)
Recipe makes about 1 cup

4 slices (1 inch thick) stale Italian bread, crusts removed
3 Tbsp. tarama caviar
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 small onion, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup olive oil

Soak bread in some water for about 10 minutes to soften.  Squeeze well to remove the excess water.  In a blender or small food processor, place the bread, tarama, lemon juice, onion, and 1/4 cup of the oil.  Process until the mixture is smooth.  Add the remaining oil and process until it is creamy.  Pour into a small serving bowl and garnish with sliced lemon.  Serve with bread or crackers.


Final product: Taramosalata with bread (made with Krinos taramas on the left and Niki taramas on the right)


Our three adult testers came up with the following results
i) (Comments about the recipe made with the Niki brand of tarama, with bread): "I think it's very thin, almost liquidy. I don't know if it's because of the soft roe or because the recipe has too much lemon juice"; "The flavour is quite nice; it is pleasantly fishy because taramosalata should taste like this"; "It tastes good, even though it is a bit runny."


ii) (Comments about the recipe made with the Krinos brand of tarama, with bread): "It's a bit sweet"; "It has  a nice texture, more pleasant than the other one, in my opinion"; "I like the way it looks. It looks attractive. It has a more solid texture for a meze plate, whereas the other brand (Niki) would just pool on my plate."

WINNER: Tie!  The flavour of the Niki brand was enjoyed equally well between our three testers, although the Krinos brand was also enjoyed for its flavour and its better mouth-feel and overall texture.

Ingredients shown: water, olive oil, small onion, Meyer lemon, Yukon Gold potatoes

Taramosalata with Potatoes (source of recipe:  The Lenten Collection, page 7, a Cookbook, 1996, Morris Press)
Recipe makes about 2 cups

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed (we used Yukon Gold (or yellow-fleshed potatoes))
5 Tbsp. tarama caviar
juice from 1 lemon (we used a Meyer lemon for our recipe)
1/2 small onion, quartered
1/2 cup olive oil
1/8 cup water or clam juice

Boil the potatoes until tender and drain.  While still warm, place the potatoes and other ingredients, NOT the water or clam juice, in a food processor and process until creamy and smooth.  If the mixture is too thick, then add the water or clam juice and process until just blended.  Adjust the amount of lemon juice to your own liking.  Serve with bread or crackers.




Our three adult testers came up with the following results:
i) (Comments about the recipe made with the Niki brand of tarama, with potatoes): "I can't get over that mashed potato texture"; "Texture was gummy"; "Flavour of the onion overpowers the tarama flavour"; "There's a lingering aftertaste that stays with you"; "I don't get the tarama flavour coming through"; "If someone had served this to me, I would eat it, still enjoy it because it's still tasty, but if I were to choose between this brand and the other one (Krinos) I would not choose this one as my first preference."

ii) (Comments about the recipe made with the Krinos brand of tarama with potatoes): "I kind of like this taramosalata because it has almost a buttery flavour and texture"; "I thought it was a light, fishy, mashed-potato dip but it's filling and it tastes fresh"; "I prefer this one to the other brand (Niki) because this one is flavourful and not overpowering".

WINNER: Krinos brand.  The overall flavour and rich texture of the Krinos brand was the consistent favourite of all three testers.  The pronounced aftertaste and gummy texture of the Niki tarama-based taramosalata were the two most noticeable complaints about this brand. 

In conclusion, after trying these combinations, all three of the testers clearly prefer the bread-based taramosalata made with Krinos taramas.  Your opinion may differ-- and that's O.K.  We'd like to hear your thoughts based on your experience with these brands or other ones not mentioned here.


Fasts and vigils, the study of Scripture, renouncing possessions and everything worldly are not in themselves perfection, as we have said; they are its tools.  For perfection is not to be found in them; it is acquired through them. It is useless, therefore, to boast of our fasting, vigils, poverty, and reading of Scripture when we have not achieved the love of God and our fellow men.  Whoever has achieved love has God within himself and his intellect is always with God.
—St. John Cassian










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